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Brazil's carnival rocks to frenetic frevo rhythm from Recife

Associated Press

Issue date: 2/4/08 Section: News
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RECIFE, Brazil (AP) - Jelly-limbed dancers with tiny multicolored umbrellas, frolicking to frenetic frevo rhythms, make carnival in this Brazilian coastal city unique and for residents second to none.

Recife's frevo music, which is accompanied by a frantic tip-toe dance in which participants leap into midair splits and fold themselves like contortionists as they land, forms a carnival tradition distinct from the better-known samba.

While Rio de Janeiro's famed Samba parade, which takes place Sunday and Monday nights, is broadcast to millions of adoring fans, Recife's bash is perhaps Brazil's best kept secret.

Late Sunday, the two traditions will meet in Rio de Janeiro's Sambadrome stadium where Mangueira, one of Brazil's best loved samba groups, will sing Recife's praises.

"By paying for Mangueira's parade we are bringing national and international media attention for our carnival, which is the most democratic in Brazil and free to all," said Recife Mayor Joao Paulo Lima Silva, explaining the $1.7 million expense to the city's coffers and about a tenth of its annual carnival budget.

In recent years, revelers turned off by Rio's commercialism and tired of being confined to the stands have begun looking elsewhere to cities like Salvador da Bahia, where supermodel Naomi Campbell and music producer Quincy Jones are celebrating this year.

Those in search of a more intimate carnival have been heading to Recife and the neighboring colonial hilltop town of Olinda.

Here, the vibrantly colored costumes and huge puppets may be dwarfed by the Rio's gargantuan floats and armies of uniformed dancers, but the lack of pomp is compensated for by the proximity. Recife also offers up a potpourri of rhythms with names that seem to flow from poetry, like "maracatu," ''cabolco," ''coco" and "ciranda."

"Mangueira has kneeled before a carnival that is totally original and chocked full of culture.

In Rio's there's just one, Samba," explains Alceu Valenca, a Brazilian popular musician and fixture of Olinda's carnival. That may be so, but in Recife one carnival rhythm stands above all the others and that is frevo.

On Saturday, an estimated 1.5 million revelers turned out for the "Galo de Madrugada," or Midnight Rooster, in Recife's city center where a procession of frevo bands wow the crowds with the fast-paced marching band music that recalls Dixieland jazz.
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